Paper Tape has to be installed with drywall compound and allowed to dry before it can be coated. 2. Don't let our colors throw you off; the mud for the second and third coats is exactly the same. Apply joint tape to the borders of the patch. Use a “raking” light to highlight areas that need special attention. While you have the banjo in your hands, stick tape onto several joints at once, and then press the tape flat onto the joints with a 6-in. Despite its name, premixed compound is not ready for taping when you open the pail. Load the banjo spool with a roll of tape and ladle mud into the hopper underneath a loop of tape. 5. It helps reduce movement and prevent cracks that may appear in the future. Don't be shy about spreading this coat over a wide area. Tape will peel, lift and blister if cracks or voids in the drywall are unfilled and simply taped over. Mix the first coat mud to the consistency of honey with a “potato masher” mixer adding water as necessary. Quit sanding the center of butt joints as soon as inconsistencies disappear. You can use either, though lightweight compound dries faster and sands easier than all-purpose. Place the patch on the hole and drill it into your furring strips before applying tape to the patch’s borders. Be very careful not to over sand, especially in angles and on butt joints where mud layers barely cover the tape. Can't Hide Paper Tape on Butt Joints. Some pros use special wide taping knives for applying second- and third-coat mud, while others use conventional cement trowels like we did. Mix second- (and third) coat mud to the consistency of creamy mashed potatoes, adding water as necessary. Our latest shed is also a pavilion—and you can build it, too! Smooth out a thin layer of joint compound overtop of the strip, extending a few inches of compound on each side of the strip. Sink the screws beneath the surface of the drywall. Buy yourself a pole sander for the large areas, a hand sander for detail work and 120-grit paper and a medium 3M sanding sponge for cleaning up the angles. Most drywall will call to mix 5 parts of powdered drywall mix and 30 parts water. The tape helps keep the wall and your patch pressed together. Since butt joints don’t have tapered edges, apply thin … We'll show you how to drywall inside and outside corners and steps to take to ensure your drywall project has a smooth finish. That lets you put on several coats in the same day, an advantage pros like. Lay the second coat on tapered joints using the same technique demonstrated in Photo 11, but keep the entire width of this coat only a few inches wider than the length of the trowel. knife. If you did a competent job of applying the second coat, the third coat will entail filling in imperfections such as low spots, craters and tool marks. Inside the hole, attach a furring strip and a small, thin piece of wood to either side of the hole with screws. Use the 6-inch putty knife to squeeze out excess compound and air from the strip of tape. knife and embed the tape by dragging the knife over the tape, pressing it tight to the drywall. 6. Banjos (Photos 5 and 6) and clinchers (Photo 3) can speed up and improve the job. In contrast, tapered joints along the long sides of drywall have recessed manufactured edges that are much easier to fill and level. Refill fastener holes (as in Photos 8 and 9). Both take patience and time to get the right touch. If you do not tape it then the mud will crack eventually. Go over the area with a sanding block of very fine sandpaper -- 220-grit or higher -- to give the area a … How to Paint Walls: Prepare Interior Walls for Painting. Never leave up any tape that has a dry bond against the drywall. Six-inch flexible putty knife (Photo 2) for larger filling jobs, embedding tape and filling fastener holes. Remove any fasteners that have broken through the paper surface or missed the framing, and drive a replacement screw above or below the location into solid wood. The second coat shrinks as it dries, so fastener holes and corner beads need to be filled with a third coat of mud. Drive extra nails into edges that don't lie flat. Apply a thin coat of compound at butt joints. Clinch corner beads into place with a clincher. The wall was cut roughly when the vent was originally installed, and the edges of the drywall needed to be cleaned up and made as straight and level as possible. Drywall tape bubbles because there was improper application of the compound and there wasn’t enough contact with the tape as the compound dried. Mud comes in “setting-type” and “drying-type” varieties. Try not to sand onto unmudded paper drywall surfaces too much or abraded paper will show through the paint. Butt joints, which join untapered ends, are by far the toughest because you have to build a wide, gradual “plateau” of mud and feather the edges to make the joint appear flat. If you need help, join a video call with a skilled Fixer for personalized advice. Step-by-step instructions for patching a drywall hole using fiberglass mesh tape. Apply a second coat if needed. Every new day of taping, remix the mud before using, adding water as needed. We prefer premixed because it's easier to mix and store. knife. Wipe down the wall and drywall patch with a slightly dampened sponge to remove any dust. Slightly dent the damaged paper left from extracted fasteners by tapping the spot with the butt of the knife handle. Step 5: Add a coat of drywall mud and allow to dry. The “first coat” consists of applying the mud-saturated tape to all of the joints and corner beads and filling screw or nail holes for the first time. A banjo is essential for all but the smallest taping jobs for dispensing mud saturated tape right onto the drywall joints. Begin with the butt joints first, then the horizontal tapered joints, then the angles and finally, the corner beads. Keep mud flush with surrounding drywall, never raised. The paper requires that you to put down a layer of mud and then press the paper tape into it and flatten it out with your drywall knife. Since … You can put a first coat of mud on immediately. Just as with drywall mud tools, there are many new drywall products on the market purporting to make taping easier. 1. Cover the patch and tape with joint compound, feathering the edges. Nail pops, corner-bead cracks and bad joints will plague your walls forever. Then lock the lids on tightly. Once mixed with water, setting compounds can harden fast and if applied too thick are difficult to sand. As a result, the lack of contact made between the compound and the tape caused air bubbles to form, but it is imperative that you correct this issue because air bubbles can easily be seen once a fresh coat of paint has been applied to the drywall. Hold the light against the wall so it shines across the surface to make all the problem spots apparent before you start. Lay on a 1/8-in. The easy way to apply the tape is to use the banjo, which not only dispenses the tape but also evenly saturates it with mud while you pull it off the spool. Apply more pressure to the outside of the knife blade to wipe off excess mud and leave a feathered edge. Check your fit with the 4x4 hole in the wall. Drag the knife over all the fastener heads and listen for the metallic “click” of a protruding head. 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